Day 9: The Final Push Through Forest and Fog
Distance: 18 km (11 miles)
Duration: 7 hours
The day began in a shroud of darkness, wetness, and fog at 8 AM. The trail descended from the mountains into a valley that felt ancient and untouched, dotted with small lakes and fields of ethereal cotton grass. The path then led into what is considered the largest forest in Greenland—a surreal landscape of dwarf willow trees, none taller than six feet. It’s a humbling reminder of nature's scale in the Arctic.
As the backpack grew noticeably lighter with dwindling food supplies, the solitude deepened. Wildlife sightings, a distant reindeer and a fleeting arctic hare, were the only company. But the wild wasn't just beautiful; it was challenging. The trail devolved into a wet, swampy morass, with deep pockets of mud eager to suck a boot off. The weather deteriorated, with persistent rain and fog turning the simple task of finding the next hut into a frustrating ordeal.
Defeated by the elements and with the hut remaining elusive, the only choice was to pitch the tent in the relentless rain. Lacking sleep, a quick nap was a necessity. To fight off the damp cold, the evening's sustenance was as rugged as the landscape: dried fish and a fortifying swig of Greenlandic schnapps. Before leaving the next morning, a small act of trail camaraderie: leaving dry kindling behind, a gesture of hope for the next weary hiker.
Day 10: From Musk Ox to Civilization
Distance: 22 km (14 miles)
Duration: 8 hours
The final day started immediately with a challenge: navigating a field of deep, unforgiving bog mud. Just minutes into the trek, a small structure appeared through the mist—the Tulleq hut, the very shelter that had been invisible the night before. A moment of wry laughter, and the journey continued.
The path rose again, winding through a high, rocky valley with breathtaking views of snow-dusted peaks. Following boulder fields alongside a rushing river, the trail demanded multiple rock-hopping crossings before opening into a vast valley known as Nasaasaaq, framed by jagged, imposing mountains.
The Umimmak Standoff
Then came the ultimate encounter. Standing just 50 yards away, completely blocking the path, was a musk ox (Umimmak). As Greenland's largest land mammal, weighing up to 400 kilos (880 lbs), this was no small obstacle. A vital source of meat and wool for the Inuit, the musk ox is a symbol of Arctic survival. After a tense standoff, the creature finally caught my scent, turned, and effortlessly charged up the steep mountainside, leaving the path clear.
The Finish Line: Sisimiut
The final stretch felt surreal. Passing a strangely out-of-place ski lift signaled the return to civilization. And then, the ultimate reward: the first glimpse of the Arctic Ocean and the colorful fishing town of Sisimiut. The hike into town was a cacophony of barking from hundreds of sled dogs, a stark contrast to the profound silence of the trail. Exhausted, mud-caked, but triumphant, the journey was complete.
The celebration was pure, simple luxury. After checking into a hotel, a 20-minute hot shower—with a cold beer in hand—washed away ten days of grime. The victory meal was a perfectly cooked musk ox steak and a Greenlandic coffee. The following four days were spent exploring Sisimiut, sharing stories with fellow hikers, dancing to Greenlandic hip hop with a troupe of visiting actors, and immersing in the rich Inuit culture. It was the perfect bridge between the wild and the world.
